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Can You Use Router Bits In A Rotozip

's get placed here -->XReplies hammer1 Apr 29, 2005 01:07am #1I have a Roto-zip, not a Craftsman. My collet on accepts 1/8" bits. I don't know if there is a collet replacement that will accept a router bit. Maybe some dremel bits would fit. I only use mine as a drywall cutout tool. I tried doing some wood cutting with one of their wood bits. I thought it was pretty useless, bits broke with minimum pressure, burned and were difficult to control. The guys on the TV adds must know something I don't. Drywall seems to be about all it can handle. I didn't experiment too much, didn't want to go into debt for bits.

can you use router bits in a rotozip


But despite what you see on that infomercial, I really don't think of this thing as a high precision tool. It works great on drywall, and you should go buy a few bits, and see what it will do for you as a plunge router -- but I think you'll be disappointed.

If you are getting into woodworking and construction in general, then there are many different tools that you need to be familiar with. Two very useful tools are routers and Rotozips (aka spiral saws). They are similar tools indeed, but not quite the same.

First, we have the router, which is a very commonly used tool in woodworking. This is a specific type of power tool that features a rotating blade (that can come in many types and shapes). There is then also a base past which that rotating blade extends past.

What we are talking about here are handheld routers that have the blade affixed to the bottom. Technically speaking, there are also router tables, which feature a table through which the router blade protrudes upwards from the bottom.

The router is designed to rout or hollow out a section of material. You can create holes, grooves, rabbets, and more using a router. With the right type of router bit, a router can also be used to form exterior curves and shapes on pieces of wood. Most routers are used for woodworking, although there are special versions that may also be used for plastic and even metal.

A Rotozip (Rotozip is just a brand name of spiral saw), is actually quite similar to a router. In fact, many people would call this tool a miniature router. A spiral saw is a relatively small handheld tool that features a tool and a spinning blade.

Because these tools have drill bit-like blades, they can be used to work on the exterior of wood without cutting through to the edges, such as for making holes and hollows. They can also both be used to work on the exterior of wood, such as for rounding edges, although a router is definitely better suited to this task than a spiral saw.

If you are working with drywall, especially if you need to cut openings into it, then a Rotozip is what you need. If you are cutting holes or hollowing out wood, then a router is going to be your tool of choice.

OK. That was silly. But it is true that I have struggled to find relevant uses for this tool that was gifted to me nearly 10 years ago. Recently I have started woodworking a little. I could use a small router because my larger router was under the router table. I really didn't want to plunk down $$$ for one. Then it hit me, what is a rotozip but a hand held router without a base. Bosch apparently discontinued their router base attachment for this thing to obviously reduce the usefulness, but I was not to be deterred. To Google Sketch-up I went where I played around till I came up with something that looked like it might work. i have made it available but please remember that it was just to get an idea of what i wanted to do and not really a true blueprint. So lets get started.

I have added the sketch-up plan here that I printed out and taped to the 1/2" x6"x6" piece of polycarbonate scrap that I had. I tried several tools to cut the shape out, but the best was a band saw. for the outside and a Hole saw for the inside. The size of the hole saw was 2" I believe, but it isn't crucial. I just needs to be able to fit the router bits through with ease. I then drilled the holes in the ears using a 3/8" drill bit in a press. But I didn't go all the way through the material. Use a 3/8" bolt to tap the holes for the all thread.

Don't forget to make a guard or debris shield for it. You can crank that rotozip up to some serious rpms and you don't want anything thrown at you. A vacuum attachment is good, especially if you use that to route drywall.

How sane would it be to press a normal router into service cutting drywall? Could I outfit it with a drywall router's plunge cutting bit and basically use it for the same thing? Or am I better off just biting the bullet and buying a spiral saw?

From drywall and carpentry work to flooring and HVAC, very few tools offer the versatility of a RotoZip. Originally designed to make drywall cut-outs an easy chore, the RotoZip spiral saw has not only made that task easy to master but has evolved into a multi-application tool for a vast array of construction projects. The unique cutting technology uses thin cylindrical bits, similar to drill bits, but with the ability to make lateral cuts along the shank. Equipped with the right bit, the tool can cut through virtually any building material up to 1 inch thick.

In addition to the tool attachments, a wide range of accessories enhance the versatility of the RotoZip. Among them are Zip Bits designed to cut everything from drywall and wood to cement board and ceramic tile. Also available are 4-inch sanding discs in 36-, 50- and 120-grit versions. There is also a variety of router bits to choose from, including a roundover, roundnose, straight cutter, point cutter and laminate trimmer.

CMT's 3 in 1 carbide-tipped flush trim bits with patented Delrin triangular bearings (791.042.00 or 791.043.00) are best for laminate trimming. They solve 3 of the most common problems that occur in flush trimming in cabinet shops.

So if it's a 3 piece router bit set you need, or a single bit, we have you covered. And of course Woodline carries all the woodworking tools you'll need beyond the right bit, including planes, saw blades, shaper cutters and much, much more.Specialty sets are also available, which include the bits needed for working with frames, shutters and miniatures. All Woodline router bits are carbide-tipped or made with solid carbide and come with a limited lifetime warranty.

Welcome to Woodline. At Woodline we specialize in carbide router bits and shaper cutters that are premium quality and a great value. Woodline offers a LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY on router bits and shaper cutters. Of course some limitations like hitting nails or dropping them apply but ours is the best warranty and customer service policy in the business.

Routing bits work with cut-out tools to cut drywall and other materials. They look like and spin like twist drill bits but cut with their sides. They are used to cut along a straightedge, make curved freehand cuts, and trace the shape of electrical boxes, panels, and frames to make cutouts. The bits fit into a collet in the cut-out tool's spindle. Bits with a cutting tip have a sharp point for drilling into and cutting through material. They are typically used when cutting off lengths of material. Bits with a noncutting tip have a smooth, dull end (also called a guidepoint) that rides a box, panel, or frame without cutting into it. They reduce the risk of damage to underlying surfaces or objects behind the material being cut.

Could I use dremel or rotozip bits to do CNC work? The problem I am finding is when I plan a job in Fusion it will take forever to mill a pocket in my spoil board and for some reason I get collisions like mad even under different strategies. I find the length of the other bits a bit longer and relieves the problem.

Try them, I used a 1/8" spiral up bit because the 1/8" that came with the 3040 was not long enough to do .75" MDF. This is 18" x 36 when mounted. I found a lot of cheap bits work fine and when you break an expensive one it hurts. I keep experimenting so breaking a lot of expensive bits is not an option. YMMV.missing/deleted image from Google+

Routers and drills both work by rotating a bit secured in a chuck, or collet, but that's where most of their similarities end. A drill bores holes and is designed for downward pressure, while a router shapes edges and cuts grooves and is able to handle significant sideways pressure. This mechanical difference, among others, makes a drill unsuitable for use with a router bit.

A wide assortment of available bits makes routers capable of cutting such shapes as beveled edges, complex curves and roundovers, as well as flush-cutting laminate edges and cutting grooves known as "rabbets." Because of the powerful cutting action, kickback is always an issue when using a router. You must either clamp loose boards to a bench or work them with a router secured to a special table, a procedure similar to cutting wood on a table saw. Vibration is the enemy when routing -- it causes chattering and rough cuts that can ruin a piece of wood.

A router spins at about 8,000 to 30,000 revolutions per minute, while the top speed of a drill is only about 3,000 rpm. Router bits are specifically designed for the higher speeds of routers. Running a bit too slow could easily allow the bit's blades to dig into the wood excessively, gouging the workpiece and jerking the tool, with potentially dangerous consequences.

Routers have a wide, flat base that rests solidly atop the workpiece. This not only keeps the top-heavy tool steady during operations, it also controls the depth of cut for the router bit. Both controls are critical for precision and safety. Handheld drills have no base and no means for controlling depth. There are drill stand accessories that add depth control to a drill, but these are in no way designed for using the drill as a router. Drill presses have a solid base and depth control, and some machinists have set them up with special vises or jigs to perform very light-duty milling operations. However, the sideways forces of routing may be far greater than any acceptable sideways force on a drill press.


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